Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

NEWS:
Collecting names of users to help with the PRE-Fix solder down to fix the USB before it comes loose
Please PM the Users in the List that resides in your "area" to get a quote on having your N900's USB strengthen
dr_frost_dk - Location Denmark - Covering EU
Estel - Location Poland - Covering EU
sEKI - Location UK - Covering UK

PM or Post if you want to "sign up" to help preserve as many N900's out there, the USB still breaks on minimum 1x N900 a week these days.

More News: Adding Phone Repair shops here
UK:
Fones Tek Ltd
Unit 8
Haymarket Hub Metro Station
Northumberland Street
Newcastle upon Tyne
NE1 7PF

mail: info@fonestek.com
web: www.fonestek.com

+447772 552 471
+447786 305 789

Just like the battery thread, i want all info in one thread :)

I decided to make a new thread to sum op all the various solutions to fix the USB port yourself, and as title said, this is both for working and non-working USB.

But instead having to post your fixes here again this will be a link page, of course if you have a new FIX then please post it here, and it will be linked to also.

sEKI - Soldering down USB with many pictures to show how to steps
blue_led - Soldering down USB to make a VERY strong USB port
dr_frost_dk - Soldering down USB to make a VERY strong USB port
dr_frost_dk - Cover modifications to make soldered USB fit
Info on this FIX, this is very easy to do, and i know many of you have never had any problems with your USB and i have never to, well besides a blown fuse (my fault), this will give peace of mind just knowing that the USB is MANY times stronger then stock.
NOTE on the cover, try to see if everything fits first before doing any modifications on the cover.

cr0c0 - Glueing down your USB to make it stronger
An excellent description and many very good pictures of how to glue you USB down, just a warning on this, if you are not careful you can get glue inside the USB rendering it useless.

mipo - Fixing a Broken USB
This is a very good post, showing what has to be done when it goes wrong.
oh2btg - showing fix based on mipo's fix

Storm_11 - Getting into the LAST resort of having a working USB
This is the last stop if everything else fails, but here you will need to add protection components or there will be the possibility of completely destroying any hardware connection to you N900.

Micro-USB Socket (20x)

And you can help me by submitting links, here or PM me, PM would be best so we don't have alot of posts, then links will be added here

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late.
 

File down you USB cable's hooks.
Be gentle with your N900 when using USB:
- Don't swing it around (no matter how good the music is)
- Don't drop it on the floor.

Attachment 22216
NOTE: File is for reference only, any metal file will do


Why is the USB "Weak" on the N900, well if you look at this picture you can see that the USB "Feet" are only connected to small points, where when soldered down the USB is connected to a MUCH larger area, even if you just make a small patch.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/29047266/N9...20Weakness.png

Just adding a quick guide of what to do when making the soldered version.

When you get to the USB after taking of the MicroSD "off" then clean the area beside it, now use what ever you have to scratch of some of the paint (i used a small screwdriver). just scrape it of like it is drawn in the pictures.
Now you should have some exposed copper on each side of the USB, you need to keep the soldering iron on here with solder applied before it "gets a grip" and while you do this hold the iron up against the USB metal, and add solder here to, you need to warm up the USB a little or else the solder will be "cold" soldered and then this fix will be useless because the solder will not really hold on to the USB.
As for the cover, try to assemble the mainboard into the cover and see if it lines up with the hole in the cover, you can press a little down over the USB as when the N900 is assembled the screws hold the whole thing down, so again try to see if it fits before you mod the cover, this is the step that can take the most time in this fix.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/29047266/N9...x/DSCN2055.png
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/29047266/N9...x/DSCN2060.png
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/29047266/N9...x/DSCN2062.png
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/29047266/N9...x/DSCN2067.png
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/29047266/N9...x/DSCN2074.png
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/29047266/N9...x/DSCN2078.png
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/29047266/N9...x/DSCN2083.png
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/29047266/N9...x/DSCN2093.png
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/29047266/N9...x/DSCN2100.png


Please PM me with the links i don't find, im searching through threads, but you may remember some, or you might have made some.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread)
 

HAHA WELL DONE and i mean that !!!!!.

You have just shown just how EASY it is to solder down a stupid little usb port BEFORE it breaks off the board AND a repair that does not need epoxy or any kind of glue.

I really thank you for the pics and something i have been telling everyone to do for long time now.

Could i make a suggestion here and the next time you do a fix like this try to tin more of the jacket right along the sides and put even more solder on both sides to the earth plain.

Now your problem is to get EVERYONE to solder the port down and put an end to this usb port problem !.

PS wish i could thank you a thousand times !!!!.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread)
 

Thanks abill.

Yes after i did this and found out how easy it is to do i encourage all to do it, or have it done before it is to late.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread)
 

This is the point i was trying to make to everyone that the metal case of the usb port is actually quite BIG and does not need any special solering equipment, only a hot iron flux and solder.

Please everyone LOOK at the pics and you will see just how easy it is to do.

Can you also post in that second post of yours the actual pics of how to take the N900 apart? this will i am sure give people much more confidence to do this easy job.

Once again i cannot thank you enough for the pics.... WELL DONE.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread)
 

ill try to, problem is i have no more to repair... already fixed 3x, i will try some photo shop things later :)

Only thing i didn't take a picture of was the exposed copper ....

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread)
 

Ha yes i know exactly what you mean because i never got the chance to even take pics on the majority of the ones i repaired, scraping away the green paint was so easy to do as i actually used one of the probes from a mulitmeter that has a very sharp end and only took a few seconds to do, the copper is actually quite thick and was suprised as how easy it was to actually solder down to the earth plain after cleaning it first with a cotton bud soaked in alchohol.

You do realise this "repair" takes care of the usb port problem alltogether on the N900 because after that is done they never come off again ! haha.

Great pics.

Do it BEFORE not after it breaks off !.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Updated post #2, now with a guide to make the solder fix, and a file down USB cable picture.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

I always thought the USB hooks were too big
Nice to have an all in one thread :)

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread)
 

Well look at the hole, if more/wider solder is applied then it will take further modifications to the cover to make it all fit, even thou this is only half the USB it still is the most load baring half, just giving strength to that side will still give much added strength to the USB.

And if anybody can't see how this will help then let me try to explain.
Look to the pictures (first 2, notice the 4 "legs" that holds the USB down, they don't cover much surface at all, now look at the last 2 pictures, here you will see a MASSIVE connection that even goes all the way to the top, this new "connection" is many times stronger then the measly 4 pins that holds the USB in place.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

This is brilliant!! Thank you for making this guide!! :) :)
I personally would not like to take my N900 apart just to get to the usb port, and to be honest I very very rarely use the usb port to charge it or to connect to computer. For charging I have an external BL-5j socket charger which works perfectly and I have 3 batteries so two are always fully charged and one is in the phone. I will file off the teeth of the charger though, because its extremely simple to do.
Once again I'd like to thank you for your hard job on the battery guide and now this usb port fix and all your input on the forum!!!


ps. I filed off the teeth on the charger and it works like a charm!! It slides in and out of the port perfectly!!!! :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:


Regards,
Csaba

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

I still urge everyone here who want their N900 to be more robust in the USB area, to have the soldering down done.

In case we do not see any other phone device we want and want to keep our N900 going a long time, this is simply one of the best ways.

And don't keep saying that, well my USB still works, and have worked fine for months and it will keep working, well maybe, maybe it will break in a month, a week?.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Just throwing a quote inhere that is not 24 hours old (less time then this thread has been here)

Everybody please try to see that if you want your N900 to survive then please do the solder down, or have someone you know do it for you

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

i dont trust myself to open up my n900 and solder down the usb port and stuff and obviously i cant trust others to do the perfect job. but still when u say it will break down and will start giving problems, i started worrying about this. are there any other ways to fix this problem?

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Wonko's Powermat mod is well worth following too: http://talk.maemo.org/showthread.php?t=72753

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

For this thread to explain everything properly there has to be a picture step by step from taking the N900 apart to the actual job of soldering down the jacket to the earthplain.

I have now got a device with a broken lcd and i will use this to provide pics step by step but please allow me a few days for this and i will talk to dr_frost_dk about putting the pics in the relevent place on this thread, work this as a team effort so to speak.

Please understand that to do the PREVENTATIVE repair your not dealing with any small components as the jacket of the usb port is actually big enough to see and work on with normal soldering iron so please realise this as it is a very simple mod to do, the hardest part is actually taking apart and putting back together the N900.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

The power mat takes care of charging, but not USB data (in case of broken USB), you can glue the USB down, it works like soldering down

Solder down:
- pros
REALLY gives all the strength to the USB by having a massive "support" that goes down to the giant GROUND copper around it
- cons
You have to scrape of some paint (not dangerous, really hard to mess up)
You have to apply a lot of heat the the USB casing to insure that the solder is not 'cold' soldered, rendering it useless

Glue down: (2 component glue)
- pros
If cleaned around the USB (where soldered would be used in the solder mod) then this should by all accounts give the same strength as the solder down
- cons
If not very careful where the glue is applied, and notice is taken for glue running (since it is a "liquid"), if it gets inside the USB then well your worse for where, you wont be able to use that USB ever again.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Thank you very much abill, i "unfortunately" have already done all the N900 i have in my proximity.....
I would make a better guide but it is kinda hard when it has already been done....

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Or a link to the Nokia RX-51/N900 Service Manuals for detailed information on disassembly; combine that with whichever approach to the USB port fix takes your fancy. The L1/L2 service manual should hopefully give some confidence that it's not rocket science and will be doable with a bit of care.

I'm about to do this on one, maybe two N900s, and think I favour using a thin "worm" of epoxy putty around the sides and the back of the port, reinforcing the pads and at the same time filling in the space under each side of the USB port. In theory (I haven't done it yet), this should adhere to more surface area than solder and will physically fill up the triangular prism shaped spaces under each side of the jacket to provide a mechanical buttress against movement. We shall see.

Update: as of September 2011, the epoxy putty in question is available for £2.19 delivered via eBay, a precision screwdriver set containing PH0 and T6 bits (among others) in a pen-style barrel is £4.00 delivered, and a pair of plastic pry tools - straight and angled - is 99p delivered. I mention this for the benefit of those lacking the confidence to pull their beloved N900 apart and find out what's inside - the knowledge you need is contained in the L1/L2 service manual plus the guides on this forum, and the tools you need come to all of £7.18, incl. delivery.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

No it won't, why, well you will apply glue from the USB to the circuit board, now you are just gluing the metal down to paint that doesn't stick to well (easy to scrape of to prepared for soldering) and if you glue it then the day will come that you find a USB that is broken off with a base of green paint hanging on to it.


Why don't you out there listen to people that actually KNOW how stuff works, i to thought about gluing mine, until i opened it up an looked at it, then i concluded that it would be a waste of time when considering that the glue will just rip the paint up with it or the worse possibility that the glue gets inside and you can't use the USB at all.


REMEMBER i have already done the soldering to 3x N900 without any problems at all.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Or just link to the first post of this thread how to open N900.

Like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYIn3q6av18
or this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVEHm325-z8
(These videos shows how to open N900 more than it is needed for this USB-port fix hack.)

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Has come to my attention that 'blue_led' also did the soldering down some time ago.
added link in post #1

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Your post should be in the first place in the n900 section.

Don't know why people are so lazy to wait for a broken usb and then search for a howto repair it.

Fix it today.

regards

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Where is the pic of the components the pads link back too? it needs to be on this thread so people know where to link wire to what component.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Found it on your first post but is not here already to view, only as a link.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

dr_frost_dk, I do appreciate your work, but please actually read the post before you flame. I'm not sure by any means that epoxy putty is "better" or "worse" than soldering, but, the decision to go down that route is informed by every thread on this forum, including yours, and I post here because I'd be interested in constructive discussion about it. Your considered opinion would be very welcome indeed.

First, we're not talking about a "glue" so much as a "filler"; this is key to the mechanical strength of the fix. By physically filling up the space around the sides of the USB port, we're not gluing it down to paint, we're building a foundation that should stop it flexing even the slightest bit relative to the board; "adhesion" is less of a concern to me than sheer "mechanical reinforcement". If the port cannot move at all, the adherence per se will never be tested. I actually ended up going over the top and back of the port as well, with the port itself protected by having a cable inserted.

Second, epoxy putty is more solid during application than either glue or molten solder, meaning less chance of getting it in the USB port - but it remains workable for a couple of minutes, so there's time to shape it, move it or remove it once it's in place.

Third, your "without any problems at all" is subjective. You had to file away part of the case to fit the board back in after soldering, which may not be a problem to you, but does mean that more tools and equipment are needed, and makes the process more complex. In the photo below, to the top right hand side of the port you'll see the indentation in the putty from refitting it into the case while still soft.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6067/...bc72a7fe0e.jpg

This means I don't have to mess about modding the case in any way, and also has the advantage that the lump of epoxy fits up hard against the case. There's far more putty under the sides and the back of the port than is obvious from this photo; I did the sides and back of the port first with the microSD board lifted off, trimmed it back level with the board and then put a lump over the top (with a cable in) before final shaping.

The end result

• uses a semi-solid material which stays where you put it
• uses a non-conductive material that can be applied liberally
• surrounds the port completely, even filling the holes in the jacket, without rendering it inoperable
• gives plenty of surface area in contact with the main board (contact with the microSD board is incidental)
• avoids fouling the case, requires no case mods, and actually reinforces the repair against the case as well as the board
• requires no soldering iron or Dremel-type tools for case modding and is cheaper to implement on a small scale

Obviously, this hasn't held up for a year yet, so I can't say it's better or worse than soldering the port down, but it is cheaper, more accessible, a less complex procedure (no case mod) and more comprehensive in reinforcing the port from all angles and in all directions. You can see the epoxy filling up the back of the port in this second photo - and the port works just fine for both charging and data after being completely encapsulated in epoxy. In order for that to pull out, it's going to have to break the case too.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6065/...6dc0b0c3b8.jpg

My hope in documenting this is that for me at least, it addresses most of the concerns that I had after reading the many posts linked to from this thread about soldering or liquid glues, and it's a fix that's available to Joe Average in his bedroom without a workshop. Comments invited.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Well depending on how you solder down the USB port case modding is not needed per say, and also i only used a small cutter for the case, didn't need to get the proxxon out or anything.

Again case modding is only needed if the USB won't sit flush when putting the N900 back together.

And in light of only using soldering iron and small cutters then you cant really argue on price, the 2-component (which can be very fluent or hard depending on type) can be pretty expensive i might add, i use it alot for various purposes and i have countless of 2-component glue laying around.

Last but not least, lets say something goes wrong anyway with either mod, whats easiest to correct?
- unsolder the port and fixing it
or
- trying to get glue off that was designed not to come off? (this is not hot-glue we are talking about)

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

on the subject on making a new connection i found this ESD filter that could be used.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

My take on epoxy: besides all will-it-stick-to-the-board? concerns and possible trouble on re-repair, epoxy always will be way more elastic than the rigid solder, so when force applied to the receptacle I guess the solder joints will break no matter how much elastic plastic material (aka epoxy) sits around it and tries to reinforce it. (think about it like "how much scotch tape to wrap around a glass tube to prevent it from breaking when you bend it")
So thumbs up for the soldering method, frowning on the epoxy method (which up to now hasn't proven it's effectiveness, unlike soldering which is pretty obvious to improve things)

PS: Note please that in the picture 3 up the short connection next to "GND" from rightmost to 2nd f. r. pin is incorrect. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Physical_appearance - pin #4 is ID pin and you best leave it alone if you can't manage to resolder it.

/j

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Although I totally give thumbs up for soldering method for obvious reasons, I would not depreciate epoxy thing. There are many epoxy types around, some of them producing heavy, metallic/rockish thing, that even produce semi-metallic sound, when hit ;) I would say that those types are less elastic that solder, really! I think it's going to break like stone, instead of changing shape, even for a while.

Still, IMO soldering is much better - because soldering characteristic, including shallow diffusion - and I'm going to do it. Probably, after good soldering, I'll also "encapsulate" it (in sane manner, of course) in good'old'epoxy. Which I think of as gaining best from both methods, unless someone prove that I'm wrong.

---

BTW, I totally agree that "modding" cover to fit soldered port is eas and doesn't involve any complicated tools. Can be done with sandpaper, if with nothing else.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

I bet you'll regret that when for whatever reasons you want to do another repair job on that USB receptacle

/j

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

That's a good point. Although I was rather treating it as "once-for-all" solution, You never know. I think I'll re-think pros and cons again, after disassembling device, before applying.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

It took a while till I noticed the brilliance of the approach. AIUI it will fill up the empty space between receptacle and the "bay" in plastic case so the receptacle is fitting into the bay and held by case, not by board. This is brilliant and I pondered it quite some time ago but never it occurred to me to use this epoxy putty for that, I just thought "dang, the headset/AV-receptacle is held by plastic case and contacts to board via springs. It never will break. If only USB receptacle was like that!" - well, and that's the point to make this concept the ultimate fix for USB: not at all solder the USB receptacle rigidly to the PCB, nor glue it to anything (use silicon oil to separate the epoxy putty from both PCB and case)! Just use a "snap-in" fixation like it's used on AV-receptacle. As obviously we can't get spring loaded contact, I'd suggest to use short stranded wires for the 5 pins and one for the metal housing (shielding). Those wires will bend when you apply excessive force to the receptacle and thus deform the whole fixating contraption consisting of the case bay and the epoxy putty. They even may break without damaging the PCB irreversibly - e.g. if user manages to break the putty and pull out the whole receptacle. No big thing to fix it if that ever happens.

Asking for comments on this concept.

cheers
jOERG

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

When epoxy putty does eventually go "brittle" it will for sure break away and even crack under pressure and this is the reason we never use it in the trade for a permanent fix, we use epoxy putty to conceal components and is usually spread completely on top of the components hiding them from view.

IF anything does need repairing under these circumstances it is just not possible because to remove would be too difficult.

There is an obvious point to make here and that is when the outer casing of the usb port which is metal and soldered down properly and the solder spread outwards as there is plenty of vacant painted green surface that can be scraped away to make a huge amount of soldering possible then it will never give, simple as that, unless you get a hammer to it or melt away the solder.

Using links on a broken pcb will always stay in place because the port itself does not move if it has enough of a hold on the surface of the pcb..

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

hmm, you haven't got the point in my previous post, which been "not attach the USB receptacle to PCB at all, neither by solder nor by glue". So when "something breaks", all you need to do is get a new USB receptacle and place new putty around it, then solder it to the 6 stranded wires you attached to the PCB pads.

[edit] NB I'd even suggest to use a thin film of silicon oil to avoid the epoxy putty sticking to either the PCB or the plastic case bay. It shall be held by mere fitting in snugly into the bay, wouldn't even matter if it has a little bit of backlash as the stranded wires just bend slightly to cope with that [/edit]

/j

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Conceptually, this is a better idea where a USB port has already broken; it would perfect what I was trying to do in that it provides the mechanical strength in the same way (by filling up the space), without rendering the board unrepairable against future faults (which I clearly will have done with that lump of epoxy). I suppose there is an element of "horses for courses" here... one day, my epoxied-in USB connector or the microSD board will surely wear out, but, my defence against that (and countless other faults) is a spare N900 and regular backups. I'm no engineer and those aren't repairs that I'm likely to perform, so for me this would be gilding the lily, but certainly it's an interesting idea.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Interesting idea, joerg_rw. Ho ever, it requires first to someone get "broken" usb port with "clear", undamaged pads - not likely to happen, I'm afraid. But, if anyone got this (un)luck, it's definitelly a way to go.

For working USB ports, I would opt for soldering it to PCB.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

When my usb port broke off some of the data pads were damaged so i tried just re-soldering the power pins (1 & 5). That doesn't seem to have worked. I will try some other methods I read about here (thanks for the consolidated thread) but i'm curious why solderings pins 1 & 5 didn't restore charging.

When i connect the (unpowered) phone to a charger I get the usb icon and an amber charging light, but the light stops blinking after 4 or 5 blinks and doesn't charge the battery. Is that second ground pin, or some resistence on the data pins, required for charging?


nvmd... read about data pins needing to be shorted for charging to work.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

Just bumping this thread since users here still have USB breaks.

Re: Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1)
 

sir my phone was a 2201... is this version has a bad quality of usb?