Changes I have made:

The user interface changes are all in x.c

To change the default background color edit line 1456 of default.c

The fonts changes are much more involved. You have to change a ttf to png glyphs and then recompile so I'm not including those here.

I have now applied dblank's cookie patch (don't know what it does) and will be putting up a new version asap (I'll edit main post when I have). UPDATE POSTED