2. No radio

Of course, that was not all. As it turns out, the two strange, detachable, bits of plastic in the back cover (under the battery cover, i.e. hidden from normal view) with the mounting screws going through them are actually the GSM and WiFi/Bluetooth antennae, respectively. That is to say, they have some circuitry inside them. My new had those bits, except they were just plain bits of plastic of exactly the same shape, with the result that the phone did not work unless I used those bits from the original housing.



The above picture shows the antenna bits from the replacement and original housing. The next picture shows the antennae contacts when mounted. You can see them as gold pads, 2 on the left, 4 along the top, and 3 on the right. I will get to the coloured arrows in a minute.



So, without the bits from the original housing, GSM, GPS and Bluetooth did not work. But I soon found that the FM transmitter did not work either. The reason for this is shown with the blue arrow. The metal bar that goes along the length of the bottom of the phone is the FM transmitter antenna and the bit indicated with the blue arrow is the spring that connects it to the PCB. This spring was a bit misaligned. A slight adjustment did the trick.

Let me just briefly mention the green arrow before we move on to the next fault. This shows the position of the power button. The button is actually a bit to the left, the arrow points to how it is attached to the case. As you can see, the tape barely holds, which was the primary cause of the button not clicking as good as the original.

3. No IR

The orange arrow above shows the position of the IR LED window. This is supposed to be an IR filter - looks black to a human eye but is trasparent to the infrared light. In theory. In practice, I found that Pierogi did not work. At frst I thought that I just put the case together improperly, but a few experiments proved that the problem was the IR LED windows itself. Instead of an IR filter, it was made out of plain, black, opaque plastic. So, yet another bit reused from the original case. The swap was a bit of a hassle since it is molded in place, but a sharp knife and superglue did the job.

4. Lens cover, part 1

Next thing I noticed was that the phone behaved as if the camera lens cover were permanently open. The flashlight widget was permanently shown and opening and closing the cover had no effect on starting or closing the camera app.

To cut it short, the problem was actually two-fold. One, the hole for the photo sensor that detects whether the lens cover is open or not was made from a shiny metal, not black like the original. Yet again, I forgot to take the picture before the fix, but you can see I fixed it with a dollop of black enamel paint as shown with the red arrow in the pictures above and below (the latter also showing the black antennae from the original housing).



But that was not enough. The original lens cover contains a small reflective target for the photo sensor. This was also missing, so I put a piece of sticky label painted partly black in its place:



5. Lens cover, part 2

That fixed the lens cover detection, but the cover itself felt a bit weird. It was not 100% straight, did not click when opened and closed and there was apiece of spring sticking out. You see, the lens cover is made out of several layers, with a spring between them. The following picture attempts to show this in a closed and open position. Yet again, please excuse the quality:



One end of the spring loops around a small nipple in the moving part while the other one fixes through the hole in the stationary part. There is a double-sided sticky tape around the assembly, with a thin veneer with the CarlZeiss printed on it going on the top.

The spring was out of the hole. Fixing it was a bit fiddly (I lost it at least twice ), but not impossible.