No, instead what you do, is you actively try to use them
(but love the fightclub reference, though...)

As it happens I got one stuck key in the beginning, but it fixed itself in a day.
I was also worried a bit when I had my Ö-key askew but that turned to be fixable with some advice from @dirkvl

the second rule of TOHKBD2: you do not talk about - oh hang on...
*reads the rules again*

right yeah, the second rule of TOHKBD2: No smoking.

my "t" is sttttttttill notttttttttt working with ttttttttttthe "click", pressing like mad now. Hope can softttten it and make ittt work soon!

Note that this method is not endorsed by Dirk or Andrew or Kimmoli as far as I know.

Use completely at your own risk!!!!

You can take the backplate off the keyboard either by gently heating it with a hair dryer or by magnetising it to the bottom of a pot of boiled water, and holding the pot up so as to not press the backplate into the keyboard for a stronger bond. Do not apply direct heat to the pot or the keyboard, just let the heat from the water warm up the keyboard.

Once you have pealed the backplate off, likely by wedging it off the keyboard by using a bank card, you need to gently get the top edge of the circuit board out from the grove in the casing that it sits in. Once you have done that, you can gently push the three Y-shaped structural elements from the casing (quite an ingenious design, I would say!) into the keyboard to free the circuit board up and out of the casing. The keys of the keyboard are held in place with some tabs, and will carefully slide out if you press the keys gently into the keyboard (like 0.5 of a milimeter or so, just so that it clears the edges of the casing), and then gently slide it up (away from you if you were to be holding the keyboard and typing on it), under the casing.

The keys that are not reactive enough will correspond to silver-colours buttons on the circuit board. If you place a small piece of clear packing tape (about 2 mm x 2 mm) onto the button, you can increase the length of your key press, and thus the key should be more reactive. You may find you might need two layers of tape in some cases. It is recommended that after each piece of tape is placed, the keyboard be reassembled (without the backplate, of course), and the key sensitivity tested for all keys. Type something like "the quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog" a few times to test all of the letter keys if you find it boring to type out the alphabet in order.

When you are happy with your results, reassemble the keyboard, glue the backplate back on by reheating the glue and pressing it back onto the keyboard, and your typing experience should be improved.

Again, this method is completely at your own risk!



On an unrelated note, does anyone know what glue was initially used for gluing the backplate onto the board?



EDIT: Fixed the pangram from "jumped" to "jumps", as suggested by ssahla on together.jolla.com.

@oenone Thank you for the detailed instruction. I was intended to do a disassembly and your info confirms it. I'm waiting for my paint spray to arrive so I can paint 3D printed case as well as fixing keyboards.

Kimmoli [feature request]:
It would be great if you include an option to 'beep' or 'flash led' on every key stroke. When I'm "devel-suing" in FingerTerm, I fail 4 out of every 5 times because devel-su doesn't show asterisks when typing a password.

I am just back from vacation and was very pleased to have a tohkbd waiting from me
Working ok even if this is a bit hard to type but I expect that will get smoother with time
One little question: am I blind or there is no '@' on the azerty kbd?

[crossout]Between right SHIFT and right FUNCTION.[/crossout]

Sorry, didn't read "azerty". I'm blind too.

Was trying to call up a 3D printing service, but there seems no length, width and height dimensions in these STL file? I can't see it myself as well. Maybe I'm wrong, but is there any method to get the dimensions of unit in mm?


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Update: Thanks Jarnose I have successfully placed order on shapeways. Now just waiting for the delivery.

PS: Almost ordered a matte black steel version, I realised magnetic won't work before placing order.

I sent those stl files to shapeways, and got a perfect case