Fixing USB port, before and after it is to late. (All info in one Thread) (See POST #1) - Page 13 - maemo.org

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	Texrat	2012-04-14 , 00:21
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For those unwilling to solder but don't mind disassembling, as I've said before epoxy should work if the surfaces are clean and it's applied properly. I would investigate epoxy types first though.

For those unwilling to disassemble, it's *possible* to apply epoxy without doing so but very tricky and no guarantee you would hit the right spots. There are needle dispensers available, some in very small diameters, and I would recommend considering that if you go the epoxy route (even if you disassemble).

EDIT: I see that dr frost touched on this at the start of the tread. Nicely done.

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	Texrat	2012-04-14 , 00:28
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Originally Posted by abill_uk

Could i make a suggestion here and the next time you do a fix like this try to tin more of the jacket right along the sides

The tinning IS very important.

As I posted in one or more of the other threads on this, my ultimate conclusion was that some of the connectors used in the N900s were either:

improperly tinned
not tinned at all
tainted by some residue

In hindsight, that's the most reasonable deduction based on the findings of everyone involved. It explains why some connectors fail easily and why others never fail at all, even with abuse (properly tinned).

Ultimately, the fault lies more with Nokia's component supplier than with Nokia. This problem could have even slipped through Nokia's AQL sampling. It happens.

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	Estel	2012-04-14 , 01:13
	Posts: 5,028 \| Thanked: 8,613 times \| Joined on Mar 2011	#123

Originally Posted by sEKI

If you're into hi-res pictures these can be downloaded from here.

Thanks for sharing, but I would not recommend using this type of soldering iron to do the job. Unless you're 100% sure, that You won't be touching - even by accident - other elements. It creates great interferences, and it's *not* recommend to solder any electronic with it.

Instead, You should use resistance-soldering-iron, something like this:
http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/cold-heat-20.jpg
...or any other type (gas-powered, etc), which doesn't involve transformer inside.

Your mtype of soldering iron is heating very quickly, and good chocie for many other purposes, but *not* electronic, AFAIK.

/Estel

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retsaw	2012-04-14 , 02:00
Posts: 701 \| Thanked: 585 times \| Joined on Sep 2010 @ London, England	#124

Originally Posted by ammyt

I dropped my N900 yesterday a distance of ~2m... while it was plugged to the charger. It fell off and was literally "hanged" by the charger cord, oh gosh such a scenery, reminded me of Braveheart :P

And this is why everyone should at the very least file down the metal hooks on the usb plugs which hold the plug into the port. If you had, the plug almost certainly would have come out without damaging the port. Of course your N900 would then have hit the floor, but that would most likely only result in nothing more than a few scratches.

I'll admit the hanging thing happened to me a few times with my first N900, when I'd only filed the hooks down a bit, and then the port stopped working after a while but I was fortunate enough for it still to be in warranty at the time and Nokia fixed it, and I also started being a lot more careful and using an external charger as well.

Now all my N900s are out of warranty I have recently got round to soldering the ports down, but I still don't want to hang them by their ports.

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	sEKI	2012-04-14 , 08:59
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Originally Posted by Estel

Thanks for sharing, but I would not recommend using this type of soldering iron to do the job. Unless you're 100% sure, that You won't be touching - even by accident - other elements. It creates great interferences, and it's *not* recommend to solder any electronic with it.

Instead, You should use resistance-soldering-iron, something like this:
http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/cold-heat-20.jpg
...or any other type (gas-powered, etc), which doesn't involve transformer inside.

Your mtype of soldering iron is heating very quickly, and good chocie for many other purposes, but *not* electronic, AFAIK.

/Estel

Well, I do have steady hands but agree with you that transformer soldering irons should not be used for that sort of electronics due to high electromagnetic field. Nevertheless my n900 works fine nor it reports any issues through "cat /proc/kmsg" (although I'm not going to put my life on it that it's the ultimate way to check that sort of stuff). And yes, I do intend to buy some sort of soldering station in the near future, anything you could recommend?

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	dr_frost_dk	2012-04-14 , 09:24
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i can recommend this a actually gave away my soldering station after using this for 1 month +, and i have used it almost every day for a few years now, i have however bought some tips from DX to replace the original when i was worn down, and also to get different tips for different jobs
And it is cheap and temp control works fine.

It is without a doubt the best soldering iron i have had or used.

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	ammyt	2012-04-14 , 21:09
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Originally Posted by retsaw

...but I still don't want to hang them by their ports.

Perfect idea!

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	Estel	2012-04-15 , 02:48
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Originally Posted by sEKI

And yes, I do intend to buy some sort of soldering station in the near future, anything you could recommend?

Thing linked by dr_frost_dk is indeed good choice. Personally, though, I prefer gas-powered soldering irons - no cable anywhere, temperature control via flame size, + You can sue bare flame to hard solder bigger things (pipes for water cooling

) With correct part inserted, it can be also used as simple hot-air for really delicate things - kinda "all-in-one solution. And it isn't expensive.

I use thing similar to 2 examples from top-right corner, but as You can see, there are many types, from small and sneaky, to big ones with custom standing.

Of course, there are also huge things, mounted on gas containers, like that:

...but I wouldn't solder N900 with it

/Estel

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	Loz	2012-04-24 , 03:00
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Originally Posted by Loz

Well I think this is my last mail on the maemo site.. tried to do the fix for my usb.. and just no chance... this is micro electronics.. and although I know what I want to do my tools wouldnt let me.. So I have a N900 in very well looked after condition infact not one scratch on screen as I allway had pretectors on it..and not just any... Nokia brand... so how much is my brick worth now?offer me the right price and its yours.. Monday Ill be sporting a Galaxy S2. or mail me via my website www.vacrite.co.uk

Loz..

TAD DHHHHAAAAAA!!! Just as I thought all was lost.. I did go for the Galaxy S2 but after sitting in the shop listtening to this guy spew S2 bull all over me...

My mind just drited away and all I could see was a N900 sitting on fluffy clouds begging me to reah up and take it... my day dream went on untill Mr S2 spewer said "So what do you think? Shall we get you signed up?" I looked at him as I wasn't even really there in mind so didn't have a clew what I'd be signing for.. At this point I said ill think about it.. turned and walked out the shop. Got home and the land line rings and its nt buddy in Scotland who is for his sins a IPhone 4 owner now.. So I told him my N900 story.. and he said ive still got mine.. i will post it down to you.. not using it, its now yours

... So got the phone the other day and all accessories!!!. phone was a bit battered but hey the insides were un touched.. So I took it to bits,, ressined the socket to the board and then put the new motherboard into my old phone case as my case is in perfect condition. flashed the new mother board and put mem card in... restored my setting and there you go. Back in business!

I never thought I had this atachment to the N900... but it runs deep. just wished the darn thing didn't lag after a few hours of being used then sitting in standby mode... but I'll deall with that for now..as Im a happy bunny.

Loz.

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binjinx	2012-04-28 , 06:14
Posts: 39 \| Thanked: 3 times \| Joined on Jan 2007	#130

I like this idea (in reference to sEKI mod/fix)

Do you think laying down some strips of copper with epoxy and bonding with soldering would be better instead of removing layer of the circuit board?

Maybe even folding the copper over the side of the board

Last edited by binjinx; 2012-04-28 at 06:16.