I'm starting to take some photos. In fact TODAY!

So I bought a noob canon cam 600D with standard lens and extra noob Canon EF-S 55-250mm. So I'm reading some books on the subject, but I would very much want to see what you guys are using when it comes to photos. I'm sure some of you got some real tech. Any noob advice is also Appreciated.

I'm think of trading up to better stuff next year...

Great images are also appriated if you have something great to show

gc11a1 by rotoflex, on Flickr

I used a Nikon FG for event/venue photography. Actually two: one with 800 ISO film, the other with 1600 ISO film just for insurance. They were small & light enough that I could clip them to my belt with those belt keyring clips & scramble up vertical ladders & go human fly all over the parts of the building to get shots.

They were very difficult shots to get audience, artist, & venue, all at different light levels in the frame, but since the advent of digital photography & HDR there's not much demand any more. With HDR you get a picture, regardless of whether it looks like the scene at the time, & it's usually very flat & cartoon/poster-like with unrealistic levels of lighting across the scene. Websites & others just want a photo that shows something & is reasonably sharp these days.

that photo looks good you are right about the fact general people dont care much these days so end up with frustration at last.

Canon S2-IS.

Stock lens, 5Megapixels, 12X zoom lens.

Here are some albums:

http://theox.sunphoto.ro/GT_Auto_Event_Craiova

http://theox.sunphoto.ro/31-05_Concert

http://theox.sunphoto.ro/01-06_Concert (Excuse the quality of the pics in this album, I was running low on battery, so I set the camera on Auto, and reduced the flash to minimum!)

It's not professional, it's a bridge, but it does it's job .

If I am to list my DSLR, I have the Canon T3i (600D outside North America) w/ Canon EF 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 Ring USM, Canon EF 50 f/1.8 and Tokina 12-24 f/4 lenses.

I find that 90% of the time I'm shooting the Canon EF 50 f/1.8. It's by far the cheapest lens of the bunch, but because of the insanely large aperture you can either shoot it successfully in very low light conditions or you can get cool effects with the depth of field.

The fact that it is a prime also saves me a lot of aggravation. I absolutely suck at deciding on the best framing when I have a zoom lens, I always mess around with it until the moment is gone. If I simply must capture a landscape, I switch to the Tokina 12-24 f4.

But you know what? Some of my most memorable pictures were taken with the N900, Sensation XE or Nexus 4. In other words, crappy phone camera pictures, because while I always have a smartphone at hand, the DSLR is usually at home.

Don't you hate when you're taking pictures at a concert, & the robot lights swivel around & shine right in the camera!

Well that's right, but the effect is not as bad as on the ones took with a cell phone.

At the last concert I attended to I didn't take the camera with me, so I was basing my hopes in the 8s camera... That didn't go to well...





Used manual settings like: EV, Focus, ISO, FLASH but still the photos are a big fail (I even paid for a professional app to control the camera sensor).

A camera is always going to do stuff better than a phone.

P.S. I even saw some pics took with the new Nokia EOS, and they really suck bad for a 41MPX sensor...

Don't trade up for better stuff, the camera is fine for your first steps (this series is currently the standard gear for photography courses at a nearby university (well, not really university but similar).

Depending on what you want to shoot, you might get other lenses though. For example, if you're going to shoot in low light, get faster lenses (lower F).

And for starters, don't put it on automatic mode, but start one step below: P - this mode is still fail-safe but you get some controls like ISO and you can play with shutter speed or aperture (the camera will adapt either when modifying so you always get good exposure but you can play with depth of field and such)

Good luck.
(currently with a nearly 6 year old canon 400D and sigma 18-200 'all-round' for everyday shooting because let's be honest, the n900 sucks for pictures)

The Nikon FG I used for my venue photographs was probably not as smart as a phone. Also, I had to figure out how to never use flash, & after a while it became obvious that for many of the pictures I was taking, no flash would be bright enough anyway to overpower stage lighting or to illuminate a whole venue.

If you don't have spot metering (like a phone or the FG), it's important not to let lights shine directly into the camera. In the photo I did above, the backs of the people at the left are seen mainly because I crouched down to use them to block a bright spotlight that was there. Sometimes I'd use people, sometimes pieces of the building.

As for the lights at the top, it is a little easier with a phone since you've got a screen & can see where they are! Just block them out with your hand at the top, & crop the picture later (Ansel Adams used his hat). You'll find that for spotlights with colored gels in them, by blocking the direct light source you pick up the color in the light they're projecting as it goes through the moisture in the air.

whats the best way to transfer images from the camera to tablets during travel? (using iPad, android and windows)