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dr_frost_dk is offline dr_frost_dk
06-08-2012 , 06:07 AM
Posts: 1,409 | Thanked: 2,338 times | Joined on Oct 2010 @ Denmark, not far from redkarma
#141
Originally Posted by [DarkGUNMAN] View Post
I attempted to fix my damaged USB port yesterday following Dr_Frost_DK's guide, convinced that the problem was with the housing that was detached on one side.

To make the port work the cable connector requires constant downward pressure so the connector is at 5-10 degree angle when charging the N900 on a flat surface.. up to this point I had a make-shift repair without the use of a soldering iron by putting a wad of electrical tape between the housing and the PCB for the SDCard in order to put enough pressure on the housing to hold it against the board, so it was reasonable to assume that the problem charging/connecting was due to this.

I'd hoped soldering the housing to the board would resolve this, but after following the guide and successfully securing the housing to the board, I'm still encountering the problem of holding the cable at an angle in order to make it work, except now it requres a weight on the connector to hold it where it will work because the housing is now solid

The only way i can charge this properly is by USB cable.. if i try a charger, it thinks it is charging but is getting no voltage, discharging to the point of being unable to start until I can coax some power into the battery
By getting Mass Storage to detect on the PC, I then know it is receiving voltage and charging.

Anyone been able to successfully resolve this problem?
Is there a way to resolve this myself by removing the USB port shielding and checking the connections?
Or is this one where I need to buy a new port and have it professionally fitted?
I think that if you can apply some heat to the pins (USB connection) you could get them to join together again, you might also have to use a little bit of solder, this however is a HARD thing to do if you are not experienced in small electronics or have to right equipment to work on it, but by doing this there should be a small hope the the connection again can be joined (without having to put pressure on the USB)
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Estel is online now Estel
06-08-2012 , 04:53 PM
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#142
+ to the above, but, if You decide to do so, please, be sure that You won't solder any 2 pins together (except for ID pin and mass, it can be made one without any negative results).

BTw, my "trick" for reflowing in situations like that, all pins at once - I've tip ressembling screwdriver ending (flat one), which is quite big as whole, but have thin ending. due to this, it accumulate much heat. Then, considering it's shape, You can touch all 5 pins at once - they should get relowed quite quickly.

home made alternative would be to cut tip of screwdriver, and replace soldering iron tip with it. It won't be effective as my copper one, yet, should do the job as well.

/Estel
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Last edited by Estel; 06-08-2012 at 04:55 PM.
 

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q6600 is offline q6600
06-15-2012 , 02:15 PM
Posts: 146 | Thanked: 38 times | Joined on May 2010
#143
@sEKI
Thank you for soldering my spare n900. Tested today head to head with my n900 and no problem in reception.
 

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kyllerbuzcut is offline kyllerbuzcut
06-20-2012 , 06:56 PM
Posts: 336 | Thanked: 65 times | Joined on Jan 2010 @ uk
#144
I'm getting this happening AGAIN. This will be the 3rd time. (no I'm not careless lol).

This last time I have seriously only plaugged the thing in 30 to 40 times since I got this replacement from nokia. The reason being, when it happened back in November I decided to go get myself a new contract with a galaxy note, so I've been using that every day and the n900 for car journeys and random other things, so haven't needed to charge much. I am wondering if the replacement they gave me must have already been on the verge of going.

Anyway, so I know I wont get another one back from nokia this time, as they can't have any left by now and I really want to keep this longer term, so I eed to fix the usb.At the moment I can still charge if I put some light pressure down on it. Going to attempt it overnight with placing something on the wire tonight.

I've skimmed through this thread to see how much people charge for the service but couldn't find ananswer there. Is it different for everyone depending on the case? I'm in the UK. Lancahire. I possibly could have a go at it but finding the time, and worryingabout doing it properly are making me think asking an expert might be better. I shall pm the UK person from the first post too.
 
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dr_frost_dk is offline dr_frost_dk
06-20-2012 , 07:05 PM
Posts: 1,409 | Thanked: 2,338 times | Joined on Oct 2010 @ Denmark, not far from redkarma
#145
Just a note, keeping pressure will lead to earlier break off, you HAVE to get this fixed NOW, it sound's like loose connections at the pins, this can be fixed, i do not offer that service since i don't have the equipment to do that, i only do the strengthening of the USB frame.

If you wait and it breaks of the FIX will be MUCH harder then it will at this point


Oh and did you file/sand of the teeth of the USB plug?
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N900 @ 850MHz (LV) & 3044mAh Battery
Battery Tests and Battery Mod / Homemade 3000mAh XL Battery - (DONATE)
Custom Brightness & No Light Sensor
N900 DIY Micro Amplifier, turn your N900 into a home stereo
Fix you USB before and after it breaks
Feel free to contact me through PM, Skype or G.Talk
 

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[DarkGUNMAN] is offline [DarkGUNMAN]
06-21-2012 , 04:59 AM
Posts: 309 | Thanked: 447 times | Joined on Jan 2010
#146
The central point of the USB port is loose, I'm definitely not confortable trying to apply heat directly to this with the risk of melting it, but if thats what I need to do to make it secure again I'll have a go heating up a small screwdriver and applying it directly to the pins inside the housing.

Failing that, I will contact SEKI to see if he can help
 

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kyllerbuzcut is offline kyllerbuzcut
06-21-2012 , 09:50 AM
Posts: 336 | Thanked: 65 times | Joined on Jan 2010 @ uk
#147
Just wondering if anyone has experience with the port charging when you place a little pressure on it. Does this mean it is likey that will always remain even after a fix? Or does it mean that the fix will repair that as well? Or on the other hamd is it sometimes yes and sometimes no.

I know I should have had the preventative measure done a long time ago but figures I was safe for a while as I wasn't using it much.

I'm just trying to plan ahead and thinking if I should stock up on more batteries or something.
 
abill_uk is offline abill_uk
06-21-2012 , 10:05 AM
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#148
The way to solder the usb port if it has worked loose but still in place is to have a third hand or someone help you put some slight pressure in the centre top of the shield surrounding the port while you use a very slim long round tip soldering iron that does not have to be too hot just hot enough to melt the solder on the pins, keep the pressure applied and work fast touching all the legs at the rear of the port back and forward until they re-solder themselves into place and the port is sitting flat as it was beforehand, once you have done this you can apply solder in a minute form to each leg to finish the job.

Before putting it all back together check you have no shorts and if you can follow the picture you will see where each pin of the port goes to, if you check continuity from the legs of the port to the components they are linked too without any problems then your done, put it all back together and test.

The latter is also a testing procedure to find out if your port is attached or not as it is often the case the break can not be seen, remember we are dealing with through hole here and not tracks running out from the usb port itself.

The easiest and safest way to cure a detached port of one or more pins that do not make after the soldering attempt is to wire from pin to the component and you will have to follow wiring diagrams and pics that have been posted on here by some very helpful members.
Last edited by abill_uk; 06-21-2012 at 10:08 AM.
 
abill_uk is offline abill_uk
06-21-2012 , 10:26 AM
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#149
For those who are capable of tiny component soldering that do not have the much needed soldering tip to do the job here is a way of making a tip to do the job.......

Ok now get a sewing needle and cut it as long as your tip is and 2mm longer, tie this by wrapping stiff wire around and around to the tip as tight as possible untill the "needle" does not move and is solid on the tip, now you have to tin the needle by either using flux and if the solder does not stay on the tip that means it is dirty so you have to clean it or file it until it accepts solder as your normal soldering tip will.

Do this and you will have a soldering tip that will be capable of soldering the tiny legs of the usb port back to the board, just remember that you MUST solder the jacket down in all cases as it is explained on here to keep the port in place.

I actually use a weller soldering station about 15 year old now and i have used this method when i needed a tip to do the job (because the weller tip burnt out) but you can actually use any soldering iron 25w or more as long as the needle is long enough to do the job so dont cut it too short ok.

If anyone needs further advice i will help.
 
abill_uk is offline abill_uk
06-21-2012 , 10:35 AM
Banned | Posts: 3,412 | Thanked: 1,043 times | Joined on Feb 2010
#150
Originally Posted by kyllerbuzcut View Post
Just wondering if anyone has experience with the port charging when you place a little pressure on it. Does this mean it is likey that will always remain even after a fix? Or does it mean that the fix will repair that as well? Or on the other hamd is it sometimes yes and sometimes no.

I know I should have had the preventative measure done a long time ago but figures I was safe for a while as I wasn't using it much.

I'm just trying to plan ahead and thinking if I should stock up on more batteries or something.
Your port is not attached on all pins you MUST solder it down before you have a fully detached port.

Once done your problem will not be there no more.
 
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