| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Estel For This Useful Post: | ||
|
|
2013-05-06
, 03:57
|
|
Posts: 254 |
Thanked: 509 times |
Joined on Nov 2011
@ Canada
|
#32
|
| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to shawnjefferson For This Useful Post: | ||
|
|
2013-05-06
, 07:35
|
|
Posts: 1,808 |
Thanked: 4,272 times |
Joined on Feb 2011
@ Germany
|
#33
|
Welcome to education in the 21st century. It's why we have graduate software engineers creating threads like this: http://talk.maemo.org/showthread.php?t=88621
|
|
2013-05-06
, 09:50
|
|
Posts: 661 |
Thanked: 1,625 times |
Joined on Apr 2012
@ Croatia,Zagreb
|
#34
|
| The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Half-Life_4_Life For This Useful Post: | ||
|
|
2013-05-06
, 10:10
|
|
Posts: 158 |
Thanked: 340 times |
Joined on Jul 2010
@ middle of nowhere
|
#35
|
I was already freaked about your soldering iron heating idea....i told u not to do that excliptly.
Btw you still can refurbish one by reusing the parts get that damm thing repaired by someone.
Most probably the nw ic you heated got displaced a little and you can get flex cable from ebay also the usb port is easily repairable
can you post some closeups??
| The Following User Says Thank You to ryu1 For This Useful Post: | ||
|
|
2013-05-06
, 18:26
|
|
|
Posts: 5,028 |
Thanked: 8,613 times |
Joined on Mar 2011
|
#36
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to Estel For This Useful Post: | ||
|
|
2013-05-06
, 19:07
|
|
Posts: 158 |
Thanked: 340 times |
Joined on Jul 2010
@ middle of nowhere
|
#37
|
In case of N900, even a heat gun would be hard to implement in practice (Not much space to heat only what you want to heat). Only "proper" way would be using IR heating station (which can heat certain parts accurately to parts of millimeter), and non-proper but -might-work is using oven.
I don't even want to imagine how one could attempt to heat a chip using regular soldering iron. It's terrific.
/Estel
| The Following User Says Thank You to ryu1 For This Useful Post: | ||
|
|
2013-05-06
, 19:32
|
|
|
Posts: 6,446 |
Thanked: 20,981 times |
Joined on Sep 2012
@ UK
|
#38
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to pichlo For This Useful Post: | ||
|
|
2013-05-06
, 19:50
|
|
Posts: 158 |
Thanked: 340 times |
Joined on Jul 2010
@ middle of nowhere
|
#39
|
I haven't seen it myself, but read somewhere on the web like someone was horrified by seeing his coworker fixing SMD chips with a soldering iron. He would just take the board with the chip on, the iron, a lot of flux and simply run over all the pins. Side to side, you understand. Not one pin at a time. All of them simultaneously. Somehow it worked. I would dare to do that f I had nothing to lose, luckily haven't had an opportunity to try yet.

i will say no more
Despite epic facepalm, I still think it needs further commenting, in case anyone *ever*, may want to attempt something like that again. I'm speechless. Lets even put aside fact, that *any* attempt at reflow without proper tools is extremely risky, and should be done *only*, if you don't have anything to loose with that particular device.
Now, if that would be the case, the *only* way with at least slight chances of success, is to remove every plastic part humanly possible from motherboard (including keyboard matrix), and put such barebone'd motherboard into ~230 C degrees oven, for ~8 minutes. Then, disable oven, open it, and let motherboard cool down slowly, without taking it out, until it's @ room temperature.
No guarantees, that it will work after that, at all. but there is slight chance - unlike doing it with soldering iron vs. chip itself, which is as much idiotic idea, as it goes. No device have right to live, after that. Attempting it is mark of requiring education about physic at level of basic school (late classes), let alone any university exams.
---
As for flex between secondary board and mainboard, I can perfectly imagine how you've torn it. Well, once, with one device, I did it myself - not because "device was stupid" or "life sucks", but because I was frikking not careful. My fault, not anyones else or "bad luck". Those things is far from being bulletproof, and in case of de-glue'ing it from mainboard, it should be secured (for example, using *light* tape) in one position. Allowing it to move freely, even a little bit, is a road to disaster. Took my lesson, and I'm always securing it, now.
/Estel
N900's aluminum backcover / body replacement
-
N900's HDMI-Out
-
Camera cover MOD
-
Measure battery's real capacity on-device
-
TrueCrypt 7.1 | ereswap | bnf
-
Hardware's mods research is costly. To support my work, please consider donating. Thank You!