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    Poll: Do you want to buy one, and why? (Votes are public)
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    Do you want to buy one, and why? (Votes are public)
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    Jolla OtherHalf OLED display / toholed

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    Page 8 of 45 | Prev |   6     7   8   9     10   18 | Next | Last
    skvark | # 71 | 2014-01-12, 19:23 | Report

    Originally Posted by kimmoli View Post
    Hmm, the PLA can have about 0.3 to 1% shrinkage, which my explain tightness in the long direction.
    But i re-measured, and it seems that the model has small error too.

    From the model: inner length = 127.34079 measured from print 127.2
    phone 127.75

    inner width = 65.443081 measured from print 65.3
    phone 65.0

    I just ordered some Premium PLA 90 from Orbi-tech. Lets see is it any better, color selection is poor for 1.75mm (3mm better)

    I think i have asked, but what cad do you use? possible to share originals under DWTFYWT-license ? or just for me, i'll buy you a beer or ES
    Yes, there's is a small error in model but not so big as that comment in GitHub indicates. I measured the dimensions with a simple ruler and made some scaling afterwards so there's definetely small errors (+-0.5mm) + PLA shrinks a little.

    I modeled the model originally with Autodesk 123D Design: https://www.123dapp.com/design
    The .iges and .step can be found from here: http://relativity.fi/jolla_toh/3dmodels/ (I'll add the DWTFYWT-license). Those were converted with FreeCAD from .stl back to solid models. I can of course provide the 123D Design file too if needed.

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    kimmoli | # 72 | 2014-01-12, 19:27 | Report

    Originally Posted by skvark View Post
    Those were converted with FreeCAD from .stl back to solid models. .
    oooh there is mi problem.
    The triangular STL is almost impossible to edit... this has now been gone to the STEP file too... I'm just heating my printer up.

    EDIT: Previous stl was crap. this should be better.

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    Attached Files
    File Type: zip otherhalf_3-9_just-frame-02.zip (12.0 KB, 83 views)

    Last edited by kimmoli; 2014-01-12 at 19:32.

     
    kimmoli | # 73 | 2014-01-12, 20:11 | Report

    For the proto, getting 1.3mm slimmer...

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    kimmoli | # 74 | 2014-01-12, 20:40 | Report

    Print finished.
    Have to move the power switch opening a little, and add a smal notch to the bottom edge

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    Akkumaru | # 75 | 2014-01-12, 23:06 | Report

    Like the icon on the other half
    Derp

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    kimmoli | # 76 | 2014-01-13, 01:15 | Report

    Attached is the tuned STL of OH outer frame.
    Just add your own stuf on top of it...

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    minimos | # 77 | 2014-01-13, 07:01 | Report

    Originally Posted by kimmoli View Post
    Attached is the tuned STL of OH outer frame.
    Just add your own stuf on top of it...
    I looked at the frame with Netfabb Basic, and it marked the part as 'damaged'.
    It seems something weird about the four corners...

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    phenoboy | # 78 | 2014-01-13, 07:20 | Report

    Very interesting project.

    I'd like to add serial port (UART RX/TX pins at least) capability to Jolla with I2C.

    Are there I2C to UART converters that could do this ?

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    nieldk | # 79 | 2014-01-13, 08:19 | Report

    Originally Posted by phenoboy View Post
    Very interesting project.

    I'd like to add serial port (UART RX/TX pins at least) capability to Jolla with I2C.

    Are there I2C to UART converters that could do this ?
    http://www.nxp.com/products/interfac...dges/#products

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    kimmoli | # 80 | 2014-01-13, 08:43 | Report

    I have given some toughts to this already...

    Originally Posted by nieldk View Post
    http://www.nxp.com/products/interfac...dges/#products
    --> either SC16IS750. Has 3.3V operation, but you'll need I2C levelconverter (e.g. PCA9517) and 1.8V regulator. Easier to interface to the 232 transceiver.

    --> or SC16IS850L. Has 1.8V operation, no need for I2C level converter, but needs 1.8V regulator. and some tricks to interface to 232 transceiver.

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