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Posts: 75 | Thanked: 112 times | Joined on Apr 2011
#651
Originally Posted by zurrain101 View Post
sometimes when charging my phone with normal battery, my battery graph shows the charge line flat. like its going up and at a point its flat line then after a while like it shows 30 min it goes back up. its like my phone is not charging when its a flat horizontal line? and then charges back when it shows going up?
It is charging when the line is flat, but the charge cannot be measured when charging so it shows a flat line and then jump to the measured charge when you disconnect the charger or when charging complete.
 

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Estel's Avatar
Posts: 5,028 | Thanked: 8,613 times | Joined on Mar 2011
#652
Originally Posted by uppercase View Post
It is charging when the line is flat, but the charge cannot be measured when charging so it shows a flat line and then jump to the measured charge when you disconnect the charger or when charging complete.
I never got a flat line when charging. I would rather blame charging instability due to bme been kicked out from i2c by patched bq - one simple question to be sure, do you use kp47? If yes, you should blacklist troublesome module by:

echo "blacklist bq27x00_battery" >>/etc/modprobe.d/blacklist

patched version of this module found in kp47 is 1005 confirmed to NOT work properly, due to its tendency to exclusively occupying i2c, causing charging instabilities/ wrong charging calibration etc.

If that is the case,m blacklist will fix it (battery may need to be charged few time to get proper calibration), then just go to kernel-power v 47 thread and buggy pali about removing new bq, cause he seems to deny accepting facts about it being broken (module, not Pali).

In other case, i would check if cable/charger isn't damaged

No battery should perform like that, be it fake or not - even really "disturbed"* ones don't drop from 50% to 0%

*By disturbed, i got a side-story to tell - before arrival of my scuds, i was disassembling some old samsung li-ion batteries to use them as replacement for my Son's toys (instead of using 3x coin-size batteries, that provide 3V-4,5V, cost much and last short - i modify every toy with putting old phone battery inside, and charging port somewhere). Unfortunately, i screwed taking apart protection PCB part - accidentally crossed battery + and - for a quite long time, until "smoke" started to fly from battery, and i was able to smell lithium. I was my first attempt @ disassembling Li-Ion battery ever, and it's design was far from BL-5J ones described with photo-details by fr_frost, so i thought that just teared part of it's metal case (pcb was inside plastic, that was glued extremely hard to battery itself). Because battery was REALLY hot, i just dropped it into nearby pot with crushed ice (to cool it down - prepared that before starting disassembling, in case oh temperature problems), and when was sure that no lithium is leaking, sealed the pot. I was sure that battery was totally screwed at this point, and I was really tired (about 3 AM o'clock), so went to sleep. Next day morning, battery was swimming happily in pot of water. Further examination revealed that metal case was NOT damaged - just safety thing released Lithium, when internal pressure started getting high (i think that implementing this pressure-safety things made Li-Ion batteries less likely to explode, hitting everything around with teared sharp metal parts). So, literally battery just lost some of it capacity (and, ended up being about 1/4 thicker than before, cause still some expanded lithium was inside, just with too low pressure to open pressure-safety "system").

After all, I use this battery as 3x coin batteries replacement happily for quite long time, and its performing perfectly. Internal resistance didn't increased, turned out to be water-proof (at least during night time storage in pot of water ), temperature and voltages as normal...

Conclusion - I can't imagine how someone was able to "screw" battery during modding process (without literally cutting battery into 2 pieces, injuring himself and nearby people by expanding Lithium explosion), or how Li-Ion battery can be so damaged that it's capacity drop from 50% to 0%.

Like dr_frost I'm waiting for HtheB story - maybe it will warn other people from repeating same mistakes? Or We'll be able to help/advice something?

Last edited by Estel; 2011-05-22 at 01:16.
 

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Posts: 152 | Thanked: 47 times | Joined on Feb 2010 @ Shanghai, China
#653
Pisen and SUCD is famous brands in China, so the test result is just reasonable.

And for Pisen BL-5J, it is marked 1280mAH here in China.

Thanks for the testing.
 

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#654
Originally Posted by AgogData View Post
wow just as yasirrfc said, you really go to every thread and just spam..sometimes i think you are like megamind but i say nah, he is just pretending to have the knowledge but he just needs to feel loved and appreciation that he don't get so he is spending his whole time attcking ppl online (and not in an online games..in forums !)
Yes, the reason I have to shut up is to keep the creeps from chiming in with fake commentary.
__________________
All I want is 40 acres, a mule, and Xterm.
 
Posts: 536 | Thanked: 81 times | Joined on May 2011 @ Russia
#655
Originally Posted by Estel View Post
I never got a flat line when charging. I would rather blame charging instability due to bme been kicked out from i2c by patched bq - one simple question to be sure, do you use kp47? If yes, you should blacklist troublesome module by:

echo "blacklist bq27x00_battery" >>/etc/modprobe.d/blacklist

patched version of this module found in kp47 is 1005 confirmed to NOT work properly, due to its tendency to exclusively occupying i2c, causing charging instabilities/ wrong charging calibration etc.

If that is the case,m blacklist will fix it (battery may need to be charged few time to get proper calibration), then just go to kernel-power v 47 thread and buggy pali about removing new bq, cause he seems to deny accepting facts about it being broken (module, not Pali).

In other case, i would check if cable/charger isn't damaged

No battery should perform like that, be it fake or not - even really "disturbed"* ones don't drop from 50% to 0%

*By disturbed, i got a side-story to tell - before arrival of my scuds, i was disassembling some old samsung li-ion batteries to use them as replacement for my Son's toys (instead of using 3x coin-size batteries, that provide 3V-4,5V, cost much and last short - i modify every toy with putting old phone battery inside, and charging port somewhere). Unfortunately, i screwed taking apart protection PCB part - accidentally crossed battery + and - for a quite long time, until "smoke" started to fly from battery, and i was able to smell lithium. I was my first attempt @ disassembling Li-Ion battery ever, and it's design was far from BL-5J ones described with photo-details by fr_frost, so i thought that just teared part of it's metal case (pcb was inside plastic, that was glued extremely hard to battery itself). Because battery was REALLY hot, i just dropped it into nearby pot with crushed ice (to cool it down - prepared that before starting disassembling, in case oh temperature problems), and when was sure that no lithium is leaking, sealed the pot. I was sure that battery was totally screwed at this point, and I was really tired (about 3 AM o'clock), so went to sleep. Next day morning, battery was swimming happily in pot of water. Further examination revealed that metal case was NOT damaged - just safety thing released Lithium, when internal pressure started getting high (i think that implementing this pressure-safety things made Li-Ion batteries less likely to explode, hitting everything around with teared sharp metal parts). So, literally battery just lost some of it capacity (and, ended up being about 1/4 thicker than before, cause still some expanded lithium was inside, just with too low pressure to open pressure-safety "system").

After all, I use this battery as 3x coin batteries replacement happily for quite long time, and its performing perfectly. Internal resistance didn't increased, turned out to be water-proof (at least during night time storage in pot of water ), temperature and voltages as normal...

Conclusion - I can't imagine how someone was able to "screw" battery during modding process (without literally cutting battery into 2 pieces, injuring himself and nearby people by expanding Lithium explosion), or how Li-Ion battery can be so damaged that it's capacity drop from 50% to 0%.

Like dr_frost I'm waiting for HtheB story - maybe it will warn other people from repeating same mistakes? Or We'll be able to help/advice something?
hey, yes i actually did that a week back. that bq27x00 was showing me a difference in my battery widget and status bar. that is working now as i black listed. and my nokia original battery dont go from 50 percent to 0 percent. its just giving me a pretty bad timing like 6 to 8 hours. when i charge it, most of the times it gives me the flat line than goes up again after a while. i tried my other battery, which im not sure if its original, to get batter timing. it gave m 12 hours straight but then fell from 55 percent to 0 percent all of a sudden.
and the cable charger is not damaged as i have charged it a couple of times with my computer and got same problem.
 
Posts: 1,258 | Thanked: 672 times | Joined on Mar 2009
#656
If the capacity reported by battery through BSI pin is much different from its actuak capacity, and/or its capacity is significantly lower than original BL-5J, the bme battery meter will get confused and exhibit erratic behaviour.
 
Posts: 619 | Thanked: 691 times | Joined on Feb 2010
#657
Originally Posted by HtheB View Post
Can anyone make some video tutorial how to easy dissassemble and solder the batteries?
I screwed 2 batteries....
DONT do the soldering mod- do the non destructive mod where you jsut join both battery with copper wire

its somewhere around page 40-60 of this thread
 
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Posts: 1,503 | Thanked: 2,688 times | Joined on Oct 2010 @ Denmark
#658
Originally Posted by Frappacino View Post
DONT do the soldering mod- do the non destructive mod where you jsut join both battery with copper wire

its somewhere around page 40-60 of this thread
or use the links i provided in post #2
 
Estel's Avatar
Posts: 5,028 | Thanked: 8,613 times | Joined on Mar 2011
#659
About that little candle war here (because such a low and pathetic thing can't be even called flamewar) - guys, please, learn to use PM's. dr_frost already asked to stop fighting here, but even if he wouldn't - do You REALLY think that anyone except You want to go through this sh*t?

---

As for destructive vs non-destructive, soldering when done carefully, with overall brain usage and/or direct cooling battery itself with bag of crushed ice (or whatever cold) should be pretty straightforward. Of course, If you don't feel comfortable with soldering iron overall, it's better to use soldering wire - but i wonder if resistance due to risk of bad contact isn't real threat here. Of course, battery itself also isn't soldered to N900 pins , so it's no problem if You're REALLY sure that soldering wire connect battery terminals very thigh, even when You shake phone, etc.

Side note - if you got only low-power electrical soldering iron (~30 W) using bad of ice around battery may cool everything, including flat cable You want to solder, too much. I use butan powered handheld soldering device, so I was able to finally solder cable to battery surface itself (on one of my batteries, flat wires just crushed and fall apart) doing it in "ice cloak", but for normal purposes better idea may be to "form" cable into flat connector, then tape it to battery using very elastic isolating tape. If You do it right, pulling tape very hard during "circles" around battery, your "connector" will stick so hard to battery surface, that it won't move even during heavy shaking. Also tested this - using proper layers of isolating, You can not only "connect" cable to battery "+" (which is literally 99% of battery metal case surface), but also to small part that is "-". But if that is the case, do it REALLY careful - you must be 100% sure that You covered all "+" surface with isolating tape, leaving exposed only small part (~ millimeter) of "-".

Accomplished this with my 1st li-ion "toy battery" and works like a charm - even when connectors are not soldered, just "sticked" to surface, resistance is about 0,1 ohm.

Anyway, I'm still waiting to see how disassembling of SCUD went wrong. Just curious.
 

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#660
yea but if he screwed up 2 batteries already, chances are like me he is not a person with soldering experience (probably wont know the wattage of his soldeirng iron like me or the different types of solder/flux etc....)

non destructive is best - it has worked well for me and I can separate the batteries to use 1 at a time if I want the slimmer n900 profile
 
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